Modern motorists are accustomed to remote start, heating, and synthetic oils that remain fluid even at severe sub-zero temperatures. In Soviet times, the picture was different: winters were perceived as harsher, equipment required constant attention, and one had to rely solely on one's own strength. But drivers were never short of ingenuity.
Below are the techniques used by motorists in the USSR to start a car on a frosty morning.
In Winter — Without a Car if Possible
Many car owners tried not to use their cars at all during the cold season. There were enough reasons. Winter tires were rarely available for sale, roads were not cleaned regularly, and the car itself was considered an expensive and scarce acquisition. Transport was saved until spring and the dacha season.
However, some drivers used the car all year round. It was they who gradually formed a whole arsenal of practical solutions to combat frost.
Autumn Preparation as the Basis of Success
Experience suggested that half of a successful winter start depends not on tricks, but on the condition of the equipment. The battery was checked in advance — the density and electrolyte level were monitored, fully charged, and the terminals were covered with grease to prevent oxidation. The carburetor was adjusted, the ignition timing was set strictly according to the marks, and the spark plugs were cleaned of carbon deposits or replaced with new ones. Often they kept a set of high-voltage wires in reserve.
Most of the work was done independently. There were few car services, and the ability to understand the car was considered a mandatory skill for the owner. Such preparation made direct sense: at zero degrees, the battery starting current decreases by about 20–30%, and at minus 18 and below, it can decrease by almost half.
Battery — in the Warmth
A common way to preserve the starting current was to take the battery home for the night. After an evening trip, the battery was removed and transferred to a warm room, and returned to its place in the morning. A warmed battery provided more vigorous starter operation. The method required time and effort, but it proved to be very effective when parking in the open air.
Heating the Spark Plugs
If the starter was turning, but the engine was not "catching", they moved on to the next trick. The spark plugs were unscrewed, taken home and heated on a gas stove. Then they were transferred back — usually in a metal ladle — and quickly installed.
The explanation is simple: heating allowed to remove moisture and carbon deposits, stabilize spark formation. In addition, a warm spark plug briefly increased the temperature in the combustion chamber, facilitating ignition of the mixture. The method required accuracy and skill, but often helped.
Gasoline in the Crankcase to Thin the Oil
In the evening, while the engine was still hot, another trick was used. About half a glass of gasoline was poured into the crankcase through the oil dipstick tube, after which the engine was started and allowed to run for about a minute. The fuel reduced the viscosity of the oil, making the morning start easier. As it warmed up, some of the gasoline evaporated.
It was through the dipstick that gasoline got into the pan faster; when poured through the oil filler neck, a significant part would evaporate ahead of time. For modern cars, this practice is extremely undesirable: diluted oil performs lubricating functions worse and accelerates wear.
Ether Instead of Aerosol
Today, "quick start" products are sold everywhere. In the USSR, their role was played by homemade mixtures. Ether could be purchased at a pharmacy by prescription, after which it was mixed with gasoline in a ratio of about one to seven. The use of pure ether was considered risky due to the danger of detonation.
A small amount of the resulting mixture was poured directly into the carburetor, after removing the air filter. There was also a factory-made starting fluid "Arktika", but it was supplied mainly to northern enterprises and was almost never found on free sale.
Heating the Intake Manifold
To improve fuel evaporation, some drivers warmed up the intake manifold. The air filter was removed, the manifold was covered with a cloth and carefully spilled with boiling water. After a few minutes, an attempt was made to start. The heated metal contributed to a more active evaporation of gasoline and the formation of a working mixture.
In the Far North, the approach was even more thorough: an electric heating element was cut into the crankcase pan and connected to the network for the night. In the morning, the oil retained its fluidity, and the engine started much easier. In the Arctic, such a solution actually became a necessity.
Hot Water and Blowtorch
The hot water method was more often used on trucks, where ordinary water was used in the cooling system. In the morning, a bucket of boiling water was poured into the radiator — the engine warmed up faster and started easier. During the day, they tried not to turn it off, and in the evening the water was drained through a special tap to avoid freezing.
Another, more risky method is to heat the crankcase pan with a blowtorch. The heated oil became less viscous, making it easier to crank the engine. The method was considered fire hazardous, but in the absence of alternatives, it was used.
Today, such techniques look exotic. Modern engine oils, electronic injection systems and automatic control have significantly simplified cold starting. Nevertheless, the experience of Soviet motorists clearly shows how important technical knowledge and the ability to adapt to conditions are. Thanks to practical skills and ingenuity, cars in those years continued to work even in the most severe frosts.